My road came to an unexpected halt on November 9, 2010.

That morning, I was bicycling to work when a garbage truck turned across a city bike lane. I was in that bike lane.

A team of trauma surgeons saved my life, but they had to amputate my left leg. My body and life were forever changed.

The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.

As I learned to walk again, I measured my recovery in steps and then miles. Over time that journey grew into something more -- a way of being in the world, wherever I go.

I am a person of ability and disability. I travel in the space between. These are my postcards.

Tuesday, April 11, 2023

To Market, To Market...

These peppers deserve their own postcard!

A jar of roasted red peppers, held in my hand in my kitchen at home.  It says "Ventia, Sicilian-style peperonata."

On an unexpected early morning, I spot them in the crowded aisle of a little Italian grocery shop called Claudio.  

"Claudio's" (as the locals say) is at the northern end of South Philly's Italian Market.  It's across from Gleaner's Café, a longtime favorite coffee stop.

After coffee, Ellen wants to pop inside for "one thing."

(It's been years since I've been in Claudio's.  So... why not?)

What starts out as a quick errand turns into a full-fledged field trip.

Me standing in Claudio's next to a cheese, suspended from the ceiling,  that's as tall as I am.
Don't you just love when that happens??

See, peppers aren't really the point of this postcard -- MARKETS are!

In the years of the pandemic and not traveling, I forgot the way a local market can be a travel adventure in itself.

When we step inside, all those memories come rushing back.

Take Copenhagen -- my last trip before the world shut down.

Natalie and I arrived in Copenhagen in the evening dusk.  Granted, sunset was at 3:45 PM, but after an overnight flight, a connection in London, a train from the airport, and dragging our luggage along the drizzly sidewalk, we were too exhausted to search for a restaurant. 

Instead, we were lured by the fluorescent lights of our neighborhood Lidl...

Smoked salmon!  
Dark rye!  
Local yogurt!
Bars of chocolate!  

Our eyes widened.  

Every shelf was exciting!  
Seeing Danish shoppers was exciting!  
Counting our kroner at check-out was exciting!

A selfie of Natalie and me under the Lidl sign in Copenhagen. The sky is dark and the sign is lit in blue and yellow.
"The Lidl" became our regular stop
on the way home each night!

If you have mobility or health issues like I do, local markets SCORE BIG.  They're a relief  -- and a necessity -- when traveling.

They offer flat terrain,
climate control (sometimes), 
and a welcome reprieve from heavy restaurant food.

Marla and me outside of a cafe in Austria with a plate of pastries in front of us.
One can't subsist on pastries alone --
or at least I can't!

In Austria, where "Gluten" Morgen was a daily greeting, Marla and I (and my tender digestive system) took refuge in local shops where we could pick up fresh fruit, salads...

Me standing in front of a bulk food bin at an all-natural food store in Innsbruck, Austria
...and my personal fave,
homemade Austrian muesli!

And in Nice, on my very first trip overseas as an amputee, Mary and I discovered the famous and colorful outdoor market, Cours Saleya.  

A vegetable stall at the Cours Saleya, with a black and white striped awning overhead and wicker bistro chairs stacked in the background.
A perfect place for early morning walks!

Our dining table at our Airbnb, with plates of fresh fruits, salad, veggies, and cheeses from the market.
Shopping à la francaise (aka "French style")
was even better than eating out!

Our food vocabulary blossomed.  We progressed from pointing and pantomiming to actually talking our way through transactions.  

A cheese vendor in the Cours Saleya, with a striped awning overhead, and Mary (from the back) ordering cheese at the counter.
By the end of the week, we even asked a fromagière
to wrap cheese for our airline trip home!

Today's stop at Claudio's reminds me how a market is a glimpse into local life -- wherever you are.  

We stand in line behind a South Philly dad.

He orders fresh mozzarella balls,
a log of soppressata longer than my forearm, 
and a super-sized container of marinated octopus, complete with suckers.  

His wife and kids stand patiently beside him cradling bags of hand-shaped pasta.  

As they reach the check-out counter, his daughter points to a four-pack of fancy Italian lemon spritzers.  She looks hopefully at her dad.  

He nods.  And she adds it to their purchase.

"I'd like to go to his house for dinner," Ellen whispers.

By the time we step outside, it's like we just returned from Italy...

a selfie of Ellen and me standing outside under the Claudio sign
via South Philly!

No plane fare, packing, or planning.  Just minutes from home.

My souvenir -- a $6.99 jar of Sicilian-style roasted peppers with pine nuts and golden raisins. :)

Pretty good bang for the buck.

Shop on!

Happy travels,
Rebecca

6 comments:

  1. That is one thing I like about Philly and their great variety of different food. Sometimes it feels like you are traveling in Europe.

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    1. Thanks for writing, Kofla! I totally agree - and sometimes I forget how much variety there is in our own hometown!

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  2. traveling in Europe is fantastic;)

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    1. Couldn't agree more! And I love your screen name - what does it mean?? :)

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  3. There were two open air produce shops next door to one another in Astoria, Queens where one was 24/7 and had the BEST produce at great prices. Your post brought me back there! Thanks!

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    1. I'm so glad. Those little shops are the best - and New York seems to be full of them. I can't even imagine having produce 24/7. What a treat. Great for those carrot cravings at 2 AM!! :)

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